- travelrambles
Updated: Dec 31, 2020
The adventure to the South Pole....
Well, to be completely honest, the adventure was moreso concentrated on Antarctica’s peninsula rather than the actual South Pole. Nevertheless, we made it to the White Continent!
Pre-Adventure
Mental and physical preparation for this trip started a couple months prior to leaving (not good for last minute packers). As the Antarctic truly has zero commercial activities, you cannot simply pop by a convenience store or mall to buy your necessities. Pack everything! Items to cross of the list, early on, included a physical examination and sign off by a medical practitioner (to assert you are physically fit to do this expedition), vaccinations (if any), and a passport check.
Just a quick comment on the passport check – neither Argentina nor Antarctica require specific passport validity (ex. 6 months validity) for a Canadian passport but double check with your cruise operator as they may have their own requirements. As for visa requirements, Antarctica requires nothing but Argentina requires a “REPROCITY Fee” of ~ $92USD for any Canadian, American or Australian passport holders. Make sure to keep that piece of paper with you handy even after successful entry into Argentina as the cruise operator will require you to submit a copy to them upon embarkation.
Background
For anyone interested in partaking in an Antractic adventure in the near future, here is just some information to help your decision making process! As Antarctica remains “ungoverned”, you cannot simply board a plane and land on the White Continent unless you are a researcher or scientist. For tourist purposes, the only feasible (feel free to correct me if I’m wrong) access is via Sea. As such, Ushuia is an extremely popular starting point as it is the most southern point in the world.
There are multiple cruise lines that you can take. We splurged and went with the French company’s Ponant (Le Lyrial).
My last comment, before getting into the specifics, is to remain flexible. This “cruise” is an expedition cruise as such the map originally planned for your trip can easily change within seconds due to either weather, ice shifting, animal behaviours, etc. Our itinerary was completely changed as our Captain noted the ice was particularly favourable as such he wanted to try going as South as possible (passed the Antarctica circle). A first for many of his crew and for this ship – yes, I was nervous.
Also, you must be ready to get up and go at a moment’s notice. Be it 6AM or in the middle of dinner, be ready to drop everything and anything, put your gear on and get onto the bridge (or even a zodiac). As the Captain put it, you have the rest of your life to recuperate.
The Map
The entire trip takes about 14 days with the cruise being 11 days / 10 nights. Of this, only approximately 5 days is spent on the White Continent. Due to its extremely remote location, the majority of your time is spent travelling to/from Antarctica. Is it worth it, you ask? Well, that’s completely up to you to decide!
We started our trip from Vancouver, BC (Canada) and traveled over 24 hours to get to Buenos Aires, Argentina. We stayed the night in Buenos Aires before taking a ~ 3 hour chartered flight (this should be included by your cruise package) from Buenos Aires to Ushuia.
From Ushuaia, the boat will take ~ 2 days to pass through the Drake Passage. While travelling through the Polar Front, your ability to withstand feeling sea sick will definitely be tested as the waters are notoriously rough as the area is where the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans meet. There are an abundance of remedies you can adopt to minimize feeling ill: pills, patches, wristlets, gravol, etc. I was quite fortunate with just using a patch and feeling perfectly fine. Others did not fare so well.
By Day 3, the waters are much calmer as you approach the Antarctic Peninsula. The original itinerary was as follows:
Day 4: Neko Harbour & Paradise Bay
Day 5: Pleneau Island & Port Charcot
Day 6: Port Lockroy
Day 7: Deception Island
Day 8: The Weddell Sea
As mentioned above, you must be flexible with your itinerary as nothing is set in stone. Our particular trip was significantly altered given that the Captain felt it was possible to push the ship further south than originally planned. As such, our itinerary became the following:
Day 4: Detaille Island (past the Antarctic Circle) & Ice Hunting
Day 5: Pleneau Island & Port Lockroy
Day 6: Whale Searching near Melchior & Neko Harbour
Day 7: Paradise Bay & Cuverville
Day 8: Deception Island & Elephant Island
The Itinerary
Day 4: Detaille Island (past the Antarctic Circle) & Ice Hunting
Our trip was extra special as the captain of our ship decided to venture more south than usual as a result of "favourable" weather. Lucky for us, this allowed us to check out Detaille Island. Perhaps it was because we were truly in the Antarctic Circle but our first moments in Antarctica were not very pleasant. Freezing cold with chilling winds and snow coming from all directions, it was truly a South Pole experience. It was nearly impossible to see anything let alone keeping one's eyes open long enough to admire the view. But from a far, I could spot a few black spots. With my lens, I was able to get a better look, and realized we were surrounded by hundreds of penguins! It was a very cool moment (although by day 8, the sight of a penguin became rather ordinary and uneventful)
Later that day, the capital decided we would go "ice hunting". What does that mean? Basically, seeking out massive ice sheets which gave us awesome views from our cabins of wild life playing just a hundred metres away but also stunning views of ice in all its glory. The absolute silence and calming views made for a perfect afternoon. To wrap up the day, we geared up, hopped on a zodiac and had some champagne on a massive floating piece of ice. The guide excitedly announce, before rushing us back to the ship, that for the first time in our lives we were "nowhere".
PS: We saw a emperor penguin. Apparently it had lost its group as that particular specie is usually on the opposite side of the continent at that time of the year. Sad but still cool to see him/her.
Day 5: Pleneau Island & Port Lockroy
Waking up the next morning was the most peaceful moment of my life. Can you imagine waking up to a view of the morning sun reflecting off the calm icy waters and stepping out to your balcony to take a breath of amazingly fresh air? Day 5 was the first time we finally got to really explore landside and I was in penguin heaven! There were literally hundreds of penguins everywhere, some only a few metres away. The rule was that you had to stay 5 feet away but if they approached you, you just need to stop moving and let them do their thing. Some of those penguins were NOT shy!
We also got to check out Port Lockroy which was a British research station up until 1996 when it became a museum and the only operating post office on the continent. Yes, I mailed myself a postcard. Had to!
Day 6: Whale Searching near Melchior & Neko Harbour
One of my least favorite moments of the trip was getting impromptu 6am wakeup calls from the Captain that went something along the lines of... "Bonjour.... we've just spotted some rare whale pods. Get up!" 5 minutes later, "We strongly recommend you to get up NOW. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity"... and maybe 30 seconds after that "We mean it. Get up!". Anyways, it was still very cool watching all the pods going abouts their merry way, feeding, swimming and hanging out.
Later that day, we reached Neko Harbour. Hiking just a few steps in full snow gear felt like a full body workout. By the time I reached the top, I did not need my red parka and was pretty much in my t-shirt. Nonetheless the view was stunning and the number of penguin colonies made for a great afternoon of "penguin watching". Apparently, the success rate of penguin hatching is not that great as first time parents would either lose sight of their egg or mess up on the co-parenting schedule and accidentally leave the egg unattended (and frozen).
Day 7: Paradise Bay & Cuverville
Day 7 was cut short as the weather was not working out for us. Apparently we brought the rain from Vancouver. In any case, we got a chance to take the zodiac out in the morning and drive around the bay. We got up close and personal with a few adorable seals while they snoozed on their ice sheet. Definitely a once in a lifetime view.
Day 8: Deception Island & Elephant Island
As we made our way back north towards Ushuaia, our last stop was to Deception Island & Elephant Island. Deception Island was pretty neat - This island is the caldera of an active volcano and previously held a whaling station. Elephant Island was also an interesting sight with endless rows of elephant seals (hence, the name). Their smell made it a little easier to say goodbye.
Summary
Overall, this trip was a once in a lifetime opportunity and I am so glad we did it. Who knows what the conditions will be like 10-20 years from now given all the global warming issues. The overall trip cost was insanely expensive ($10k USD for the cruise alone pp). Granted we spent all our honeymoon fund on this trip, it was still worth it! There are alternative companies that can take you there for far cheaper but I'd be cautious to check their terms & conditions. Many say they go to Antarctica but you are pretty much seeing everything from a window (as oppose to actually stepping foot onto land). Other companies may also do it very cheaply but run a higher chance of running into issues. Trust me, you do not want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere with moving sheets of ice and unpredictable weather. If you're going to go for it, spend the money and have a fabulous time.
Tips
Give yourself enough time in Argentina as there is high probability your checked luggage might get lost. It will be summertime in Argentina so you will not be very lucky in finding winter gear. Alternatively, pack as much into your carry-on as possible
Be prepared for any weather – as it is summer in the Antarctica it can be as warm as +5 degrees celcius but with wind chills it can get quite cold. Our attire for the daily excursions included thermal underwear + fleece layer + waterproof layer. Waterproof boots and parka were provided by the cruise. Sunglasses + toque is also recommended.
- travelrambles
Updated: Dec 31, 2020
Although the ride down to Uyuni with the company Panasur made me smell like urine for 24+ hours, I would actually choose that bus company over Tudo Turismo. We booked with Tudo for our journey back and was greeted with hot beverages, pillows and everything that promised for a great ride back. However, within minutes of departing Uyuni it became quickly apparent this was going to be a rough ride because the driver took what seemed to be a non-existent road. It literally was as if he decided to just head north and follow the desert path. The whole ride was like a consistent Magnitude 4 earthquake but matters got pretty scary and dangerous once we realized we were caught in a massive snowstorm (in the middle of the desert). I don't think I slept a wink for that 10 hours as I was pretty confident we were going to die. However, with everything in our trip, we made it safe and sound to our next destination.
Arriving at our 4 star (Bolivian standards) Camino Real Aparthotel & Spa was a wonderful sight for 7 pairs of very sore eyes. We looked like absolute train wrecks among businessmen and fancy tourists. Despite that, the staff treated us like movie stars and allowed us to check-in early (hot showers after a few rough days on the road was a piece of heaven). Despite the treacherous night we had, like true shopaholics, we made our way straight to the markets for 5+ hours of textiles, leather and other Bolivian must-haves.
The main reason for visiting La Paz, aside from being the closest main city to Uyuni, was Death Road. What better way to end the South American adventure than mountain biking down 64km next to a 600m drop with a descent of more than 3,600m. They don't call it the most dangerous road in the world for nothing! Nonetheless, we survived!
Summary Days spent: 2.5 nights, 2 days Type of Lodging: Hotel Name of Lodging: Camino Real Aparthotel & Spa Activities: Shopping, Drinks and Mountain Biking on Death Road
It was a bit nerve racking heading to La Paz, considering its reputation, but we had an awesome time. It was nice to get back to the City lifestyle after a few days of living in the middle of nowhere. Highly recommend the markets and a visit down Death Road!
- travelrambles
Updated: Dec 31, 2020
Bolivian Salt Flats Tour with Blue Line
When my coworker first brought up the Salt Flats, the images of the beautiful reflection had us sold within minutes. Little did we know that such conditions were only available 1-2 months of the year. With more research came a revelation that there were a few concerns when it came to booking a tour: 1. Drinking and driving was apparently a pretty big issue among the severely underpaid drivers. 2. The trucks take a huge beating during the trip yet many companies have been rumored to poorly maintain their vehicles leading to larger risks of accidents or breakdowns in the middle of nowhere. 3. Each company had different offerings when it came to where you stayed, what you ate and how long you got to stay at each sight. 4. Turnover was so high that reviews you read a few weeks prior to your trip was already considered outdated. So with those considerations, it was advised that we book upon arrival to Uyuni as oppose to booking in advance. The recommendations were to talk to a few recent travelers who were just returning. We knew it was going to be a tough task since we would be arriving that same morning and would only have a few hours (actually it became only 30 minutes) to do our research and find a good tour.
WHAT WE EXPECTED
WHAT WE GOT
BOOKING OUR TOUR:
When you get off your bus into Uyuni, you will be greeted with many tour companies begging for your business. It's recommended to do your research prior so that you can sort the facts from the over-promising lies. For example, know that the reflection scene is only available during the rainy season which runs around January - February. For the rest of the year, it is an absolute drought. After ruling out a few, we made our way to the Blue Line office based on the recommendation of a passerby. They were able to answer all our questions which corroborated with our prior research. They also allowed us meet our driver prior to paying (which took a bit of persuasion) which gave us the chance to "check" the condition of the car (or pretend to anyways) and converse with our driver. Although he didn't speak a word of English, he was cheery and personable so we felt we were in good hands. Given that the driver is not only your tour guide but also the driver and your cook for the entire duration of your trip, it's pretty key to ensure you like the guy!
DAY 1 - SALT FLATS
The first day of the tour consisted of the train cemetery, isla del pescado & the salt flats (of course). Our first night was in a very cute family owned hobbit-like premise. At night, the temperature drops and it gets really chilly. However, we had so many blankets it was actually too warm at night! There was also a fully functional bathroom which was a great sight for sore eyes.
DAY 2 - FLAMINGOS for DAYS We started pretty early the next day and left shortly after dawn heading South. The second day was definitely the day of the flamingos (and some llamas here & there). We drove as far west all the way to the Chilean border and down south to the Eduardo Avora reserve (essentially the Argentinean border). At this point you do have the option to continue into Chile for the Atacama desert but we stuck to the Bolivian side. Click below to view my snapshots of Day 2!
As we stayed overnight in the national park/reserve, we had very limited options in where to stay. The place we stayed was extremely different than the night before (no pictures unfortunately). It made the hobbit house feel like a 4 star hotel. At this point, we were at nearly 5000m elevation so even with 4 layers of clothing and 3 blankets, we were freezing all throughout the night. As we had to make our way back to Uyuni, we had to start the day before sunrise (before 5AM).
DAY 3 - Eduardo Avora National Park The last day was a bit of a haze. At this point, we felt pretty disgusting having not bathed in 3 days (tmi?), quite sleep deprived, suffering from massive altitude sickness at 5000m elevation and getting quite car sick (sitting in the back seat of a 4x4 for 6+ hours will make anybody queezy). The highlights of this last day were the hot springs & laguna verde. We only spent less than an hour sightseeing, reaching the Argentinian border, before making our way back to Uyuni. Click below to view my snapshots from Day 3!!
PHOTOS
Summary Overall, we had a very positive experience with Blue Line - specifically our driver Juan. He took great care of us ("his 7 chickas"), made great food and did his very best to explain the sights despite the huge language barrier. The trip overall is definitely tough. My skin had this weird rash going on the whole time (which I later found out was massive dehydration) and the living conditions were not ideal.
It's unfortunate we could not get to see what we had wanted (the reflection) but lesson learned! Perhaps when I'm older, I'll have a chance to visit Bolivia again. Except the next time, I will visit during the appropriate season, take a plane down to Uyuni and do a day trip only. Live & Learn!